Autumn’s Bed

Plant perennials. And shrubs and trees. This allows for good root growth. The exceptions are fruit trees that should be planted in late winter or early spring.

Bed out your bulbs. Fall is the time to plant garlic. When separating garlic bulbs, be careful not to bruise the cloves. Plant scab end down with some bone meal sprinkled in holes three to four inches deep. Space about five inches apart. Water and mulch. Flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips should also go in now. They’ll come back every year, offering springtime rewards.

Leave your leaves! Leaf litter is vital to beneficial insects. They lay eggs and hide from the cold. There are areas where this is not practical but always find some leaves to leave undisturbed. Raked leaves can go on the compost pile but shredding is best. In the spring, once the temperature reaches 50 degrees for at least a week, rake all the leaves you want!

Leave the seeds. Let perennial seed heads remain in place. The birds will thank you for the winter feast.

Pull weeds! You don’t want their seeds to spread.

Store the sensitive. Dahlias, calla lilies and other non-hardy species need to be stored in a dark basement. Once foliage has been killed by frost cut the stalks to 6-12 inches, loosen soil around the bulbs, and gently remove them. Be careful not to damage roots or bulb. Leave the bulbs outside to dry for a few days, shake off excess dirt, put in a plastic pot and store in a dark basement. They’ll be ready to plant in the spring.

Down with the dead. Prune dead branches in the fall, or later winter/early spring. Pruning stimulates growth. Many gardeners find there is less injury to roses if they’re pruned in early spring, just as buds are beginning to appear.

Gather your gourds. Pumpkins and squash are sensitive to temperatures below 45 degrees. As much as possible, wait to harvest until the rind cannot be punctured by a fingernail. Also, watch for “corking,” when stems begin to turn from green to brown.